Is Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe Safe?

Baja Travel Safety Updates 2024:

Three Surfers Missing Found dead

The missing surfers that went missing in late April were found deceased. And it is now being reported as a robbery gone bad.

My heart goes out to the families and the loss of these three, two from Australia and one from San Diego. 

It is natural to worry if that means Ensenada is unsafe for a shore day excursion or trip to Valle de Guadalupe. 

Geographically, that area is quite far from the Ensenada cruise port and city of Ensenada where our Spa is located.

By car it is about 2 hours from Ensenada City, the cruise port, and still 1 hour south of La Bufadora area where most Shore excursions happen and the largest Ensenada Expat population lives.

That area is quite far from the city of Ensenada, and any tourist area for any shore excursion a a cruiser would get to, and quite far from Valle de Guadalupe Wine region and our mobile spa clients stay.  

My main point is that where this happened is not near the populated areas, but several hours south. I still feel the populated areas are safe for living and tourism.

I have camped alone on many beaches in the Baja peninsula and surfed a few places in my 15 years here. Although I don’t know Punta San Jose or La Bocana, it is a common destination among surfers, and like many places is quite remote and off-grid.  Most of the Baja is off-grid.

As sad and tragic as this is, I will note that dozens of surf trips like this are happening every weekend, along the surf spots on the western shore, and kayak, surf camping trips on the eastern shore.  These sad incidents are tragic, but quite uncommon given hundreds of safe adventures tourists take each year.

In the local Ensenada and Baja North community I have seen no change in safety levels.

Although drug cartels are powerful, their activity is not directed toward anyone who is not involved in their business. Tourists or local Mexican nationals not involved are do not face any danger I am aware off. Their violence is not random, it is targeted toward those involved.

In town, their activity has never directly affected my life here, nor business activities including downtown massage, sending mobile teams to Rosarito and Valle de Guadalupe, Private Transportation, and shore excursions.

I can’t say if the danger in these remote areas has increased, but certainly off grid carries many complications.  Bad things happen, sometimes to tourists.  Much more often to Mexican nationals.

Of course, traveling anywhere has certain risks.  Having good information helps prepare, feel less worried, and enjoy the travel experience.  Although I believe populated areas of Baja Norte carry no real risk (just personal property theft), having a local guide makes the experience safer and richer.  

If you decide to get off the ship in Ensenada on a shore day or road trip, check out my Ensenada Safety tips, and emergency contacts based on living here as an immigrant. 

With a Sad Heart,

Jesse

Is Ensenada 6th most dangerous city in the world?

Yes, according to some older stastics of murder per capita, Ensenada is the 6th most dangerous city in the world in 2023 according to El Vigia reporting World Atlas statistics. Tijuana is #2. So, does this mean Ensenada is dangerous or unsafe for travel and tourism?


I was unaware we had this ranking title since I don’t read the local papers.

Well, the homicides are cartel-related and do not affect daily life in town nor tourist areas. Living here for 15 years I have never been affected by this violence. My business has never experienced extorsion (TJ reports this). I have been mugged in Washington DC, and Guatemala, never in Baja.

Your bank account does not say much about your happiness and your murder rate per capita does not say much about the experience of living or traveling.


The knee jerk reaction would be to avoid Ensenada, or if you on the ship, not get off ….. In a way that would be awesome for me since I love the Mexican vib of my life here. Really, who wants more tourism in their hometown?  Unless you own a couple of tourism businesses!!

And besides, Mom taught me to share, so I shouldn’t keep my happy place to myself. 

I will also note that the article includes a chart title with the year 2023, with 403 homicides is the exact same homicide and population count reported in 2021 by SanDiegoRed here. Maybe just recycling statistics for a splashy headline? The economist in me does not appreciate deception with numbers.

Where do all these murders happen?  Honestly, I am asking around because I don’t know.  I have lived downtown and in mexican neighborhoods in Saulzal - NOT a gated community, for most of the last 13 years here. 

I really don’t know. I don’t see violence, and it does not affect my personal life or business life.  Yes, physical stuff gets stolen occasionally as in any city, but I feel no physical body insecurity.

The violence as I understand it is entirely between the cartels, and that is exactly what the article says.  

It makes me sad, because news like this naturally makes some travelers afraid to get off the ship or even come to Ensenada, and suspicious of local businesses. Bummer. 

At any rate, I am preparing an Ensenada Safety Sheet so travelers may feel a bit more informed and safe.  I totally understand you just avoid areas you don’t know about and think might be dangerous.  As GI Joe slogan says, ‘Knowing is Half the Battle”.  

Does this affect travel to Ensenada? No. Same as has been for years.

Does this affect areas for tourism, near Cruiseport, or bufadora for excursions? No.

Is the Ensenada Cruiseport Safe?

Yes!

As a side anecdote, I have only ever had property crime incidents here (stolen stuff). Never any crime against my physical body. And even with respect to property crime, I have forgotten my keys in my car door at least 6 times for several hours in busy downtown area, and when I came back the keys and car still there. . . .

Atmospheric River February 2024

Feb 5 Heavy rains caused 24hr washouts in Ensenada and traffic divergence in Tiauana, all back to normal now.

San Diego Floods January 2024

The heavy rains fell in Northern Baja, but only caused a one day traffic disruption. Within two days, all roads to Bufadora, Cruiseport downtown were normal.

Valle de Guadalupe paved road were unaffected. Unpaved roads have increased potholes, which is normal this time of year.

Road Travelers Beware of the New Scam

99% of trips are fine. I have heard several people report a new scam. A car will side-swipe you in the blind spot, and then when stopped, find a way to ask for cash, either by lying about the local laws, or trying to confuse you about insurance coverage. Don’t pay upfront.

Remember the toll road has liability coverage too. If you paid the toll, you have coverage.

And in Mexico, anyone who hits from behind is at fault, even if you cut them off!

Tijuana - Ensenada Toll Road continues under construction

After the spring rains weakened the road yet again, one lane is under construction. Traffic is diverted to the other lane during construction time, causing 15-20 min slow down at busy times between Bajamar and El Sauzal/Ensenada.

Consdier the alternative inland route, libre from La Mision to Ensenada.

Road Conditions Baja Norte

• Avenida Internacional in Tijuana will be partially closed starting the beginning of November as they begin construction to build an elevated roadway. Traffic will be down to one lane in each direction. If you are using the San Ysidro border, you may want to take Calle Segunda as an alternate route. If you are towing, we advise you to use a different border crossing.A large sinkhole opened up in Tijuana along Via Rápida Mexico 1 on the way into Playas de Tijuana.  Repairs have begun but are expected to take another few months. The road is drivable but expect traffic and delays. We advise avoiding the area if possible and crossing the border at Otay Mesa (see our directions for taking Boulevard 2000) or Tecate.

• South of Ensenada between Estero Beach and the turn-off for La Bufadora, there is construction to replace a bridge. Traffic flows are slow on weekends and some afternoons.

• There are new lane configurations at the Tijuana San Ysidro Ready Lane entrance. Stay in the two left lanes to get to the Ready Lane

• Highway Mexico 5 is now paved to Highway Mexico 1 and in good condition.

• Mexico 1 through Maneadero has many potholes. Expect to drive slowly.

• Mex 1 has recently had repairs done and is in good condition from El Rosario to Guerrero Negro. 

• Tiajuana Via International northbound has construction along the route to the border crossing, with delays, your gps may route you through the city

The State Department Did update travel information for Baja, suggesting reconsidering.

In 2023 after the kidnappings on the other side of the country, the State Department updated the travel advisor to reconsider.

Geographically, Matamorros is 1,500+ miles away, on the opposite side of Mexico.

I have seen no change in Ensenada. A few friends reported that Tiajuna police are more present and stopping tourists. But as I have explained elsewhere, TJ is a large international border city and the local cops act very differently from Ensenada, which is more like a regional town. Just stay on the highway/toll road and you won’t even be in TJ.

Some clients have canceled their plans, but most continue to trust our secure pick-up at cruiseship.

i will note that the news reported that the narcos admitted it was a mistake and they turned in their own members to the police who were responsible. Of course, this is a tragedy overall but points to the idea that this type of violent crime is not random. The people behind it know what they are doing, to whom, and why. If you are a tourist minding your own business, you are not part of their plans.

Whatever implicit power-sharing agreement exists between the drug cartels and the government security forces, not messing with tourists is part of the deal.

Keep in mind that locals tell me Ensenada was long considered a safe haven for the Cartel families. Hey, everyone needs a vacation place for their families, right?

Is it safe to drive to Ensenada Now?

Yes, road conditions are ok. Flooding has had no medium turn effect. Same old pot holes in down. Construction on way south of Ensenada.

Ensenada has no recent uptick and crime and the roads are in good condition even after the hurricane earlier this year and seasonal rains.

Potholes are about the same size as they were 5 years ago, because they were repaired, and opened up again!

Tourists’ deaths in Baja and Femicide in Cabo?

If you are like me, you may have read an article in NPR about a tourist's death in Cabo.  Actually, it has been a new item for two weeks but didn’t rise to my attention until I saw it on local newspaper while road-tripping in Cabo, and now in NPR follow-up story.  

So you may be asking is Baja Safe and what is the deal with tourist dying and femicide?  And you should always ask if places are safe, it just makes sense and is a form of self-care/ protection.

Here are my 2 pesos of expat perspective.

In this case, a 25-year-old Shanquella Robinson from North Carolina went down to Cabo Resort for her Birthday with her college friends and tragically died.   Reportedly, the friends lied to say it was alcohol poisoning when the autopsy says she was struck in the head was the medical cause of death, the investigations began.   Now investigations on both sides of the border.

So, there are no Mexicans in this story except the medical examiners that properly reported the cause of death. 

Interestingly the NPR headline is that Mexican authorities are suggesting Femicide.  Although Femicide happens in Mexico, I haven’t heard that it is prevalent here in the Baja. Honestly, this seems like violence between friends, not cultural gender-motivated violence that seems to result in local socio-economic conditions. 

I don’t know the details and I am not an expert, but clearly, this kind of information portrays Mexico as a violent, unsafe place.  I would like to say there seems to be some misinformation or at least confusing information.  As if violence among young college students reflects local conditions. This case did not involve Mexicans directly - violence between US tourists in a resort in Cabo says little about safety conditions.

I initially read about this in a local Cabo/ Baja Sur newspaper Zeta Nov25 week. In that article, they also reported that the local criminal investigation established there was $17,000 USD cash missing from the victim. I didn’t see this reported in US news sources. I would speculate 17 grand cash among college students might be related to the motive more than gender.  

I get it, the bad news gets clicks and safety is important. Unfortunately, this news in Cabo affects the impression of the whole of Baja and Mexico - including Ensenada.  If you are on the cruise ship, fears even getting off the ship for shopping, Excursion Tour, or Massage. If you are in Southern California, you might rethink visiting the Valle de Guadalupe.     

Please keep in mind Cabo is 20 hours driving south of Ensenada - as far as Seattle to San Diego. It’s a beautiful drive, but really, really, really long.   Is the criminal activity in Seattle relevant to tourism in San Diego?  Not for me when I head to San Diego.  

 

In short, I am fatigued to see once again the never-ending news cycle suggesting Mexico is unsafe, and some travelers may interpret what happens between young partying tourists in Cabo resort as suggestive of safety in Ensenada, geographically 20 hours away.   And some cruisers may stay on the ship out of fear during their Ensenada or Cabo shore day.   Of course, this affects my business of massage and excursions.

But hey, I am living and road-tripping in Baja to my heart’s delight. Just my 2 pesos of local ex-pat perspective.

Breathe deeply and Travel Slowly

 Jesse from WI

Hurricane Kay: Ensenada Roads Open

Update 9/12: Hurricane Kay landed most heavily in Central Baja, including Mulege and Bahia Asuncion where my tiny house is, about 10 hours south driving distance from Ensenada. So Ensenada was spared the brunt of the storm and damages are minimal.

There were some accidents and temporary street flooding with Friday’s rains. The streets are clear now, cruise ships have docked and all is running as normal. The Shore Excursions team was taking horseback, bufadora, and kayak tours as normal on Saturday and Sunday.

Unpaved roads in Valle got messy, but all are now passable. Our mobile massage teams were out working this past weekend without a problem - just dirty cars!

Roads going north to Tijuana and San Diego, and Valle de Guadalupe are all open. I was in San Diego Friday and came back Saturday with no issues.

Roads going south are still being cleared far far away near Guerro Nego (Baja is reeally long). Locals suggest staying away from traveling that far south for another week.

Update 9/3: This weekend continues to be calm in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe. Local traffic is normal and ships docked all week. Tours, massage, and all businesses open as normal here. My business partner hotels and Airbnb owners at Valle de Guadalupe Mobile Massage indicate no problems with road transportation.

I have noticed the introduction of ‘Policia Touristica’ with a few extra cars and bikes and atvs around town. Presumably, this is a special unit to calm tourists about the police presence. I have never personally experienced extortion or bad treatment by local police. Mexico has this reputation of corrupt police, but my experience is all the stories in Baja come from Tijuana. I deserved every infraction I have gotten here in Ensenada!

Cartel Scare Tactics: All Over

Update 8/30: Ships are docking as usual. Normal traffic and just a few extra police around. I haven’t heard of any new activity.

Local gossip actually says the violence a few weeks ago was not the cartel, but actually conflict between the Tijuana transportation companies, putting pressure on the government for changes. Hard to say what was the cause, but is past now.

Update 8/23: Cruise ships are docking and operating tours. There was an incident on one of the tour buses to Bufadora having a side window broken. It appears a rock was thrown a the bus, hit a window and the safety glass cracked. No one was injured, but the driver left the scene;(

This is one reason our Shore Excursions team works only with registered private drivers are personally responsible for passenger safety.

Update: Tuesday 8/16/2022 I drove through Tijuana on my way to San Diego. Normal rush hour traffic and borderline. Seemed normal to me. So I guess I am celebrating morning rush hour traffic?

Monday was petty much back to normal life in Ensenada. All businesses are open and transportation running.

Sunday was a quiet day since the ships didn't dock. We took massage appointments and went to the Valle for mobile massage.

Update: Monday 8/15/2022

Calm in the streets, and businesses are open as usual.

Our massage studio and mobile spa team took appointments. Excursions are ready to go Wednesday.

I saw a few more police cars than normal, but nothing else. All streets are open, and no one I know reports any injury or trouble.

Update: Sunday 8/14/2022

Despite the bad news, I had nice dinner downtown and dessert on the first street. Other than a few extra patrol cars all seemed normal.

My morning swim with the dogs was great - the water so warm now.

Cruise ships did not dock today so, massage and excursion deposits are all refunded for those folks.

We have a massage and mobile spa appointment today.

The fears of Friday night didn’t develop into much here in Ensenada. They have a dozen people in custody for the road blockage and vehicle fire Friday.

We will close early for precaution, but pretty much back to normal on the ground here in Ensenada. Unfortunately, these images will linger in the mind of tourists for a while and discourage them.

Update: Saturday 8/13/2022

Ensenada Businesses Closed Saturday morning due to Insecurity

For precaution, the city of Ensenada is essentially closed. Last night one of the cartels announced it would create violence on the streets of Tijuana, Mexicali, and Ensenada until Sunday afternoon.

So I am working for home, but everything seems calm. And I expect tomorrow will be back to normal.

https://ensenada.net/noticias/nota.php?id=68913

A few vehicles were burnt and the city has announced a stay-at-home recommendation. Most businesses were closed down at 10 pm Friday night.

The streets are quiet today. For precaution, I have closed my businesses Ensenada Massage, Valle Mobile Spa, and Ensenada Excursions, are closed.

Most likely cruise excursions and massages will be canceled tomorrow Sunday as well.

It’s hard to know what is exactly true and what level of danger there is, but I prefer to act with caution. Although narco activity doesn’t usually direct me as an ex-pat business owner, the cartels are powerful, and when there are a power imbalance between cartels, or in negotiation with the government, the risk level changes.

05/13/2022

The state department issued a travel warning for Mexico and included state of Baja, not Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe

As you know, the State Department issued a travel alert to reconsider travel to Baja and for Mexicali Valley in Baja Norte government employees are restricted. You can see details below, and Ensenada is not included in the restrictions.

https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/mexico-travel-advisory.html

At the same time, the local Ensenada paper announced local violent crime is down 53% this year from January to June.  

So, what does this mean for your travel to Baja?

Honestly, I don’t think this kind of information is that helpful guidance on traveling.    Newspaper local data are questionable and government reports accurate, but often months old and the geographic area gets lost.

This last year I have seen no change in safety as an Expat living and working here.  I continue to live peacefully, do my work, pay taxes, and hang out with my dogs on the beach. Since I am not involved in any illicit activity, those players don’t bother me, or other tourists. My biggest travel problem this year has been my car overheating due to a faulty radiator fan switch.

I personally never feel at risk here in for crimes against my body, and I accept the physical things of value may magically disappear if I don’t pay attention. . . . that seems to be the same most places in the world. 

Updated 8/22/21:

Beach goers be aware that Playa Hermosa Beach is closed for water activities due to contamination. This affects swimming, surfing and surf lessons mainly. The Playa Hermosa beach break is wonderful for beginners. Activities further away near La Bufadora such as Kayaking Bufadora, Snorkel, Fishing Trips, are fine.

I live on Playa Hermosa and do see swimmers and surf lessons happening, and I don’t hear of anyone getting sick. Of course, you can still walk, have a windy picnic (windy here), or take a horseback ride. However, better safe than sorry. Stay safe and have Fun!

Are Ensenada beaches Open?

No, currently closed due to a black water spill. They should be open again in two months until the next test. Playa Hermosa is also closed because of construction on new infrastructure.

Southbound border traffic continues without restrictions for crossing or covid testing.

Ensenada continues to experience an upsurge in violence related to drug trafficking. However, this upsurge is from almost no violence two years ago, and I have not it seen affect tourism, local ex-pat life, or Valle de Guadalupe. Ensenada, this does not seem to touch those not involved in bad stuff.

Baja remains in Covid Semafaro Amarillo, Yellow light. See current government updates here:

Update: 7/24/21: Vendimia is still being held. Returning from my birthday trip to Sedona, AZ, I see that there are more masks and precautions in Ensenada compared to Sedona.

Update: 6/24/21: The vaccine has been rolled out for the age groups down to 20s now. The free, voluntary offering was available beginning with the older population and has now reached the 20’s. Most workers are now vaccinated. Our Spa team is 100% vaccinated. I haven’t seen statistics on what percent of locals received, but I would expect 50-70% are now vaccinated.

Safety protocols such as limited numbers of groups at tour sites, wine sites are still in place.

Update: 5/24/2021: The Valle de Guadalupe restaurants and hotels have fully reopened with new restrictions. Facemasks, temperature checks, and hand gel the normal indoors, and most places now have indoor and outdoor seating for restaurants.

There continue to be no road travel restrictions entering Mexico or returning to the US at San Ysidro. Air travel returning to the US from Mexico requires a test.

In Ensenada, many (including our team) at Ensenada Massage - Valle Mobile Spa) are gaining access to the vaccine. Although behind the US in availability, it has happened.

There are still new covid cases and hospitals have adjusted to handle them. Most businesses

Beaches are filling up on the weekend. Many empty business offices in downtown Ensenada, so the economic impact remains evident. The cruise ships haven’t returned yet - maybe September? The main city beach, Playa Hermosa is partly closed for construction. However, everyone still accesses it from the sides that are not under construction. The biggest city park is under reconstruction/ closure as well. However, the harbor Malecon, huge flag area, and Riviera are all open with controlled entrances for temperature checks.

Please come visit us! In our Ensenada Spa, a facial package with our Mobile Spa Team, or a Personalized covid - safe wine tour with our Tours team.

Breathe Deeply and Travel Safe, Jesse A

I live and travel here, so ask me any safety or questions or updates you see. I’ll add them here.

Click Here to whatsapp Jesse 6461285160

I was on an epic 4-week road trip with my dogs in Baja Sur, so missed a few months of updates here.

Overall, Baja Sur seems a bit more consistent in its enforcement of masks and signs. However, since so much of life is outside, it didn’t seem to matter. Many people wear masks on the sidewalk.

The beaches were closed for Semana Santa but reopened when I returned three weeks later. On the ground, I noticed La Paz is still closing its Malecon in the evening. Flights in and out of Cabo to the US require a covid check before leaving. Other than masks indoors and temperature check and gel at the doors, I saw no reportable covid related restrictions in Mulege, Todos Santos, Los Barilles, Cabo Pulmo, San Ignacio, Loreto, or Bahia Asuncion.

The military and agriculture checkpoints don’t check health issues.

Update 2/24/2021

Despite newly announced land border controls entering into Mexico, I saw no difference in the border crossing northbound and again southbound the weeks of February 20.

Update: 1/31/2021:

Are there restrictions to entering Baja Mexico by Land?

Until this last week, there were no restrictions on driving southbound that I had heard announced or witnessed. Now there has been an announcement of new requirements, that may or may not be enforced: TalkBaja Source

• obligatory use of face masks temperature

• symptom screening

• maximum of two persons per vehicle

• verification that purpose of travel is considered essential See US Consulate

Yes, Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe are open for travel. There are no health checkpoints nor travel requirements for negative test results to enter the Valle de Guadalupe or Baja Norte if you are already in Mexico. Los Cabos now requires some testing for air travel. Official statistics reflect high rates of covid, and hospitals are full in Ensenada. Rates are lower than in Tijuana and near the border.

Keep in mind most of the cases are concentrated in Tijuana and Mexicali. Ensenada County has about 1/3 of the cases compared to Tijuana, so most of these cases would not be directly relevant to visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.

Baja seems to have a more relaxed attitude than I feel in San Diego on my visits north of the border. There is life in the streets and, although modified, people are working and living.

Despite the circumstances, restaurants and hotels have adapted. Tourism is open and there are Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food, and around Ensenada. Click for my recommendations. You can actually eat in a restaurant. The Baja and Valle de Guadalupe are welcoming travelers from Southern California with few other travel options, and Mexican national tourists from mainland Mexico.

Most spas are shut down in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe, according to city requests. We are offering more mobile massage, a few massage appointments in our spa, and private tours for wine, horseback, and ATV.

According to a recent NPR article Title We Feel Safe, “Mexico has the fourth-highest death total from COVID-19 in the world and is experiencing a surge in infections and hospitalizations in the capital and its surrounding suburbs. Despite that and fast-rising case numbers in other countries like the United States, Mexico doesn't require travelers to show proof of a negative coronavirus test or to quarantine upon arrival.”

Official government news Facebook page here . BC Health Secretary with official Cases for Mexico here.

Baja Norte is in red light of the stoplight system.

Update: 12/10/2020: Despite red light, Still no travel restrictions entering by car. Restaurants are open with seating restrictions. Beer is now more available.

Beaches are open with 100’s of people using them each day.

Update 9/4/2020: Beaches are open in practice. I have been able to surf and swim this week without being asked to leave. At least fifty people walk and exercise every morning on Playa Hermosa.

No health checkpoints are in place. Restaurants and hotels have that survived have reopened with new procedures, including the rigorous Clean and Safe Certification that our spa follows and is used here, in Valle de Guadalupe and Ensenada by the tourism board.

The streets are quite busy on the weekends. I haven’t heard of large improvements or worsening in health statistics, which I don’t think are reliable given all the uncertainty of covid and the institutions here.

Update 8/6: Are the beaches in Ensenada Open? Yes, the beaches in Ensenada are now open! See my beach recommendations details here.

The Valle de Guadalupe is now open as well, I would say 1/2 open. The roads are open, and restaurants and hotels are accepting clients. All have made investments and changes for COVID, making your visit as safe as possible. Many things are still closed, so activities are a bit limited. I am developing my list of recommended activities in Valle de Guadalupe and around Ensenada here for what is open, and activities beyond wine and food, and mobile massage.

Update 8/1: Beaches are now open until 9am. This applies mostly to city beaches. Private and beaches out of town are open or differ on a case-by-case basis.

Update 7/20: Entering Mexico at San Ysidro is still no problem. Returning to US is no problem for citizens.

Entering Ensenada, there is no longer a health check to stop tourists and check the temperature or ask for a justification for your visit. Several micro-breweries reopened last week. About half the restaurants are open, mostly with outdoor seating. There is normal activity in the streets as locals are living daily life. Everyone is required to wear a mask in buildings, although this seems to me only enforced for the workers and depends on the place.

Businesses like my spa have adopted necessary safety measures and are offering modified service - outdoor seating for restaurants, sending food and massage to your door, and modifying indoor activities to make it as safe as possible. Many hotels and our spa have Clean and Safe certification and have invested in equipment and training to reopen.

Check official links for data on reported cases, below.

City beaches are still closed with lifeguards patrolling 8 am-7:30 pm. Check out my list of Best Ensenada beaches and access points.

Occasionally the cops drive down a busy road and use a megaphone to announce that the beach or park is closed.

The Valle de Guadalupe is partly open with select places opening. See here my updated activities of things to do in Valle de Guadalupe,

Update 7/10: The health stop or ‘Filtro’ entering Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe is reimposed on 7/4.

Update 7/2/2020: Beaches are still closed. City beaches are monitored by lifeguards 8am to 7:30pm, and you will be asked to leave. Locals walk their dogs and exercise, and surf before 8am or after 7:30pm. As an alternative, go to a beach further from the city center, such as near Bufadora.

Update 6/20/2020: The health checkpoint in Sauzal is now allowing anyone without a high temperature to pass to Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe. Previously documents or a good verbal argument were required to justify your entry. Now, as long as you pass the temperature radar gun test, you are welcome. Actually, they waived me through last week without a temperature check or conversation, so enforcement is spotty.

Road travel is now open and there is no risk of being turned back!

Crossing the border into Mexico is unchanged. Crossing back into the US has not been a problem for me, a US citizen with Sentri pass. Despite what’s in the news, I have not heard of any US citizen having trouble crossing back into the US.

Reserve now with 10% discount, and reschedule easily online as your travel plans change. Use code TRAVELSAFE for discount. We are offering select appointments in the studio and open-air massage through our mobile service Valle Mobile Massage. The science points to stagnant air as a main risk factor, so we have maximized airflow in addition to many other changes to ensure your safety and ours.

Official data can be found here for Baja COVID cases. However, official data are highly suspect.

Update 6/1/2020

As of June 1, many restrictions were supposedly lifted across Mexico, including the health checkpoint entering the city. I have not seen this confirmed yet on the ground.

Baja California remains with the same recommendations for social distancing. A few restaurants with outdoor seating are open. Beaches still closed. Non-essential mostly still closed. Other parts of Mexico are a yellow or green light on the government categorization, Baja California remains a red light.

I have yet to meet anyone locally who was officially diagnosed with COVID or serious COVID symptoms. Local government also recognizes that many were ill with similar flu in February and speculate Ensenada may have some kind of resistance at this point.

Personally, I was ill for 5 days in February, with one night of fever, and sensitive throat lymph glands. Well before any cruise ships stopped coming or lockdown. I recovered on my own without hospitalization or diagnosis (tests were not available).

During May, there is a health checkpoint coming into Ensenada and each car is checked for temperature and asked their business. Some tourists have been turned away and residents are asked for a residential bill such as water/electricity to demonstrate they live here. I haven’t heard of residents being turned away for not having the document.

Waits are between 10-120 minutes for the checkpoint. There is no way to avoid it in the last few weeks of May.

As of 4/16 there are only 5 confirmed cases in Ensenada. Official data here.

Mexicali and Tijuana have more than 500 confirmed cases and seems to be quite bad. Unlikely that these exact numbers are accurate, but clearly it is on the rise at the border and arriving in Ensenada. The border is closed to non-essential travel to non-US citizens. In practice, it’s not clear what that means for US citizens.

Driving into Ensenada, there were medical checkpoints as of 3/28.

Curfew was imposed 2/29, but I am not sure how that will be enforced.

Although there are a few cars on the street, social distancing, masks, are the norm. I would say about 70% of businesses are closed or substanially reduced.

3/29

Daily life in Ensenada seems to be life as normal, but slower.  Eventually, Coronavirus (Covid-19) will arrive and disrupt the medical system as well as other factors of life here. The situation is changing daily with respect to travel restrictions. 

Please take care of the science-backed ideas to reduce infection rates, and fortify your immune system to handle any infection. 

We believe in the power of science for health, and embrace a holistic biopsychosocial model of wellness that incorporates the thought process and sees wellness as more than solely mechanical or chemical.  The mental stress of the situation is an important part of your wellness.  

Finding relaxation, social support, and fun are helpful for sense of well being,

How safe is Ensenada, Mexico?

updated August 13 2021

Wondering if travel to Ensenada is safe? It’s a common question from travelers Airbnb couples, and visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.  There are no official travel warnings or restrictions from US State Department for Ensenada, only other parts of Mexico, 1,400 miles away.

Living here and observing the news, there has been an uptick in violence in 2021. However, this unrest does not affect tourism or ex-pats living here. I live in the middle of an Ensenada Neighborhood in a small community with weak security (our guard is only there 1/2 the time). And I don’t have any fears of my physical body being damaged or hurt. Perhaps my physical property will be damaged - I have had a window on my RV broken. However, I see the potential for the physical property as part of city life in almost any city in Mexico or the US.

Please don’t avoid Ensenada due to bad news in Michoacan. That would be like saying, I won’t go to Vegas because of riots in Detroit . . . .

Unofficially, as an ex-pat spa owner here for 9 years, this is my two pesos worth of advice:  For the traveler, Ensenada is safe.

There has been a rash of violent killings in Ensenada and Tijuana in the last three months, primarily in night and mostly away from the city center. The city center remains very safe, with some risks in the ungated communities further from the city center. This change does not affect daytime tourism or wine valley tourism. As an ex-pat male, I never feel my body is unsafe here. Since it is a city, leaving things out is an invitation for theft.

Officially, recent US Department Warning Here does not mention Baja in ‘Reconsider Trave'l’, only in ‘Increased Caution’.

“There are no additional restrictions on travel for U.S. government employees in Baja California, which includes tourist areas in: Ensenada, Rosarito, and Tijuana”

More Broadly, if you are looking for evidence of why Mexico as a country is safe, consider that foreign residents are not leaving Ensenada nor Mexico overall, and record numbers of tourists arrive each year.

Tourism is an important industry here in Ensenada, so local police keep a close eye on downtown Ensenada, La Primera, Malecon for security and food safety as well. You will see a 24/7 security guy roaming the Malecon (mostly telling me not to ride my bike) and a cop car parked in front of Parque de Tres Cabezas. Also, the local police force is using drones for emergency crime response and has decreased crime 10%.

You can see in this updated map, the homicide crime rate in Ensenada is lowest in Baja.

Your body is safe in Ensenada.  Ensenada crime rates are lower than Tijuana, and Los Angeles.  Nobody will mug or kidnap you, or something horrible such as steal a kidney.  My Dad worried about his since the violence and kidnapping news filtered through to him 15 years ago. Baja today is much much different. These things are very, very rare around Ensenada, and do not affect travelers when they do occur. Locals feel safe generally as well and the wealthy I have observed do not travel with bodyguards. Keep in mind, historically Ensenada has been considered a safe haven for the crime cartels and other shadow businesses.  Any cartel violence was not enforced here. This infographic on crime shows Ensenada with very few reported murders.

You can see while there is serious violence in Mexico, this is a geographically huge country just like the US, and the dirty business in Sinaloa is so far away does not affect Baja.

Your property is pretty safe in Ensenada

Generally I don’t hear stories of purse snatching, phone grabbing, or carjacking.  Ensenada is a city, so property disappears if you leave it unattended and in open. This is mostly relevant for living here. You can see visitor report feeling safe. This survey reports low to moderate perceptions of crime and high levels of safety.

Avoid Travel Stress: Book Private Tour

Valle de Guadalupe Safety

I am in the Wine Valley often for mobile massage, and see the biggest troubles there are road conditions and theft. In the rainy season, unpaved roads have huge puddles and ruts. Don’t get stuck and ruin a great weekend. Low rise vehicles are not so great. Having said that, the main roads in Valle are paved.

Theft is mostly an issue for those that live there since it is so spacious, and empty during week/off season. You might notice dogs everywhere. Dogs are often used as a security device, doing their job to bark . . . .

Safe Travel for Ensenada: Exercise same caution any city in the US:  

• Don’t leave bags unlocked or sitting around.

• Lock your bike up, valuable car or off road vehicle; the more valuable the stuff, the bigger the target.

• Understand that late night drinking leaves you vulnerable

• Feel free to ignore random people that talk to you, mostly to sell you stuff . . .

• Bigger bills are hard to make change often. Not a security threat, but an inconvenience.

• Prepare Girl scout: Check if you will have cell coverage, have insurance coverage, any emergency info you might need. Save walking map down below here:

Within walking distance of the curiseport and downtown area is cleaner and well guarded.  The Malecon has security 24/7 (no bikes or homeless or soliciting), the police station is 1 block off La Primera, and regular patrols.  As you get away from La Primera in Ensenada Centro, it does get dustier and more full of potholes, (especially compared to SoCal Catalina Island for you Carnival cruisers).  We don’t have street sweeper machines and for the potholes. . . local government what can you say? Please know that this is just daily life for us. Mostly people working, buying shoes, taking kids to school, going to the dentist, working to pay rent.

Biggest Travel Risk

• As a traveler or tourist, the biggest risk is a crummy travel experience,

• substandard lodging when you go for something cheap,

• uncomforatable vendors price negotiations on La Primera street,

• long driving hours and stress,

• transportation stress of bad roads and being left by Uber.

Ensenada has huge potholes and Uber doesn’t arrive to many places. So don’t get stranded at blowhole or wine valley or las canadas. I suggest booking a private driver tour like Arturo at Ensenada Excursions and Tours.

Border wait times are a huge variable. Unless you have Sentri or Medical pass, the crossing back into the US may be the worst part of your Ensenada weekend.

Crossing into mexico is also backed up on many Friday afternoons.

Security Check points pop up randomly on major toll road. Be aware. There are at least two types of checkpoints. Army guys in fatigues are clearly military and really only interested in guns and drugs. Don’t mess with them. I have had a yerba matte tea spoon confiscated since they didn’t know what it was for. The federales have dark blue/black uniforms and cars. It seems they are primarily looking for drunk driving. Local patrullas in Ensenada are relaxed and not sticklers for minor traffic infractions. I haven’t heard many bad tourist stories from patrullas here in Ensenada, but lots in Tijuana and Rosarito where there is more of a party scene.

On the toll road, keep your toll ticket. Part of paying toll is free service towing (to the next toll booth) and insurance to cover accidents. These ‘Green Angels’ have white and green vehicles. Phone number on back of toll ticket.

Check out:

Things to Do in Ensenada

Things to Do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food

Best Tacos Near Downtown

Get a Massage and Give a hug!